Most locksmith problems happen under pressure: a lockout, a broken key, a door that will not latch, or a smart lock that failed at the worst moment. This guide is built for that exact situation. Use it to get a fair price, avoid unnecessary drilling, and choose the safest fix for your door, your family, and your budget.
This page is the complete locksmith hiring guide. It covers pricing, scams, rekeying, drilling, smart locks, and safety standards, and links to in-depth articles for each topic.
If you are researching locksmith services in detail, these guides go deeper into the most common questions and mistakes people make:
1. The 60-second checklist before you call
Before anyone is dispatched, get clarity on the basics. This one minute saves the most money.
- Ask for the full business name and a real address (not only a call center).
- Ask for a price range that includes service call, labor, and parts.
- Ask if they will provide a written estimate before any work begins.
- Ask what could increase the price (after-hours, high-security hardware, extra keys, drilling).
- Confirm they will verify authorization to enter (ID or reasonable proof of access).
2. Licensing and regulation vary by state, so vetting matters
In the U.S., locksmith regulation depends on the state (and sometimes the city). Some states require licensing, others do not. That is why you should validate legitimacy and pricing clarity before anyone arrives.
Example: California requires locksmith company licensing through the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services (BSIS), and operating without the proper license is not allowed. North Carolina also has a dedicated locksmith licensing law.
3. Fair pricing: what a normal quote must include
A fair quote is not just a number. It is a breakdown. At minimum, it should separate the service call, labor, and parts/hardware. When the quote is vague or unrealistically low, the final bill often changes on-site.
Use this phone script before you call:
Can you give me a price range that includes the service call, labor, and any parts?
Will I get a written estimate before work starts?
If drilling becomes necessary, will you explain why and get my approval first?
4. Drilling is usually the last resort, not the first option
Drilling can be legitimate, but it should come with a clear explanation. For most everyday lockouts, skilled locksmiths try non-destructive methods first. If the first recommendation is drilling, slow down and ask what methods were attempted and why they are not appropriate for your lock.
If drilling is required, ask for two things: (1) confirmation of the replacement part model, and (2) the old cylinder/lock to be returned to you.
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5. Rekey vs replace: the most common decision (and where people overpay)
If keys were lost or stolen, full replacement is not always required. Rekeying often solves the risk fast by making old keys stop working, without replacing the entire hardware. Replacement makes sense when the lock is damaged, low quality, incompatible with your door, or you are upgrading security.
6. A good locksmith verifies authorization to enter
A trustworthy locksmith should verify you have the right to access the property. That can be a photo ID, proof of residence, or another reasonable method depending on the situation. If someone is willing to unlock a door with zero verification, that is a serious red flag.
7. Hardware standards: use them to avoid vague "upgrades"
If you are upgrading or replacing hardware, ask for the exact brand and model and keep the receipt. When standards matter (insurance, rentals, inspections), a common reference point for mechanical door hardware is ANSI/BHMA grading (Grade 1, Grade 2, Grade 3). BHMA notes that Grade 1 is the highest level of performance.
If you want a clear breakdown of what those grades mean and when they matter, see: ANSI/BHMA lock grades explained.
8. Fire and exit safety: doors should open from the inside
Security is not just keeping people out. In many buildings and situations, doors along exit routes must be able to open from the inside without keys or special knowledge. OSHA summarizes this clearly for exit routes: doors must be unlocked from the inside and openable without keys, tools, or special knowledge.
9. Smart locks: the most common failure points (and what to ask)
With smart locks, most problems are power, alignment, or settings. Before you pay for a full replacement, ask the locksmith to check: door alignment (strike plate), battery contacts, firmware/app settings, and whether the lock is binding under pressure. In many cases, adjustment and calibration fix the issue.
10. After the job: protect yourself with simple documentation
Before the locksmith leaves, ask for an invoice that lists the exact work performed and the hardware model installed. Take a quick photo of the packaging or model label. If insurance or rentals are relevant, keep these records. This also helps if a problem shows up later and you need warranty support.
If you want help deciding the safest and most cost-effective next step, describe your situation below. Include the door type, lock type, and what happened (lost keys, lockout, jammed deadbolt, smart lock error).
